Continuous researches

Spring 2019 updates

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Re-invention.

 

This spring of 2019 I start working with Collect Mill of Japan Blue Group, which is really special thing for me as since I got into denim, just wearer those days, I was always paying respect to their company and had got several garments made by them and fabrics were just great with its feel and texture and ageing nicely.

 

I start with two fabrics (agreed to be stolen from production line before sanforization process. Deeply appreciate this) and only first models sampled and worn in testing reasons but I already deep in love with results I'm getting and looking forward to extend our cooperation.

 

However, these special sourcing opportunity took me to another adventure lap of endlessly continuous researches of good old classics of work wear. That wasn't first time I digged into it, but this time I was way more particular as I looked for those details fits my ideas for models I wanted to produce. At early 20th Century 11 ounces denim was considered and advertised as 'Extra Heavy Duty Denim' fabric appropriated for heavy works. Isn't it curious?! Over time things were changing and new garments were coming in everyday use. And it is really captured my interest - determining details and silhouettes of garments of different eras according to materials in hands. 

 

Going to start with two sets of Jackets and Bottoms with later updates, few more items from new fabrics yet to come. All are inspired by vintage garments but not repro. I always beat forehead 're-inventing a bicycle' and no vintage garment were hurt ripped.

 

 

So here we go by fabric announcement:

  

1. 13,5 ounces Memphis cotton 3/1 indigo denim with great texture of slight slubs of irregular loose weave.

 

 

And it will appear in:

 

- Chore Coat ТКП320. 

 

 

An item inspired by classic Chore coats of first half of 20th Century. Its close roots to classic blazer and wide range purposes and industries of use makes it most utilitarian item of era of growing industrialization.
This garment has straight ref to classic chore coat in term of design yet constructed from scratch and shows some unexpected solution such as half raglan sleeve and rounded collar shape.

Pockets are updated with TWERD' identity stitching designs.

 

 

- 30s Regular 5 pocket Jean ТКП803.

 

 

Setting complete work outfit with Chore Coat this jeans design and silhouette were developed with only reason of convenience and comfort at any occasion of use.


The pattern constructed basing on body proportions and gives proportional ease at hips, thighs and hem. So they can be called 'Mid Waist Regular Tapered'. More to comfort point adds front pockets curves with extra ease given here so hand come-in freely. Buckle back allows to tighten waist if needed before first wash that shrink them dramatically.


All pockets are cooper riveted for more durability and back pockets has identical arcuate specially developed for reasons of beauty only.

 

 

2. 11 ounce (Extra Heavy Duty denim as we know) 2/1 vintage work blue neppy denim turn into:

 

 

But first I would point something. TWERD' started with passion for crafts and small industries and respect to people working on making material existing things, passionated with it and see Monday as an opportunity but not just count point. There are people who I know for a long time and seen them changed and some changed their life for making things and I honoured to know them. 

 

 

I dedicate it to two of them and giving it a name - Wood Set!

 

They are two Moscow guys, together called Wood Deed, and this days we are doing sort of collaboration mixing our ideas and supply each other with needed things - uniforms against shop furniture.

 

- Cargo Jacket ТКП319.

 

 

A heavy cargo jacket inspired by mixed influences of french work wear and well, pocketing ideas of hunting jackets.

 

Simple silhouette filled with lots of details for usability and comfort.

Huge pockets at front can carry lots of things and even big things. What ever you need for your works, hammers and clamps or laptop and tablet.

 

These pockets connected with another big pocket at back that has separate entrances with valves at side seams inside the jacket as well.

 

So you can take with you only what can fit into your pockets with no bag and it will be more than you will need.


There are couple chest pockets as well. One leaf pocket with chain embroidered 'Wood Deed' lettering and another on inside.

 

Sleeves are reinforced with double elbow for durability, yet the decorative detail here is single seam goes from collar dropped back at shoulder line and goes straight to cuff. And back to top to collar stand double layered and zig-zag stitched.

 

 

- Heavy Duty Shop Pants ТКП802.

 

 

High waisted wide fit pants with buckle back and cord instead of belt.
 

These are developed on the base of classic wide trousers with refined dart solution moved to cinched seat seam with tuck detail.

 

Trousers has two side pockets at front double layered with unbleached white cotton herringbone and stitched roundly through-in front panels. Corresponding to them back pockets has round shape as well. 
 

They are fine trimmed inside with cotton tape where needed, so same good looking inside as outside.

 

 

 

More styles are developed but still waiting for appropriate fabrics to be accomplished